cutlass bearing

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10 years 10 months ago #140 by Derek Ratke
cutlass bearing was created by Derek Ratke
I need to replace the cutlass bearing on a 1975 whitby. How is the best way to remove and install the new bearing?

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10 years 10 months ago - 10 years 10 months ago #141 by Greg Temple
Replied by Greg Temple on topic Re:cutlass bearing
In an attempt to save some of Doug's time, here is a summary of postings taken from the Yahoo list-serv over the last few years:

____________________________________________
From Tom Andreano, sv Lone Star, Antigua
George, the cutlass bearings are a standard part. They go by a different name from the two manufacturers. I will check my little "book" and write you back w dimensions & names, unless someone else responds sooner.
____________________________________________

From Tom Lone Star #216:

To add to the cutlass bearing info: the outside diameter is 2", inside 1.25. Lenght = 5". There appears to be two manufacturers: Johnson names theirs "BITE" and Morse names theirs "COD"

From Bill Speary s/v JANUS:
The bearing is a Cutlass bearing 5" x 2" OD Navel Bite (or COD).
They are push in and sawall to get it out. I put mine in the freezer overnight and push it in the next day.
____________________________________________

From Philip:
"Our cutlass bearing is held in with two setscrews accessed through
small holes in the fiberglass of the keel, just forward of the aft
end of the bearing - one on each side."

Note that one bearing uses set screws, one doesn't. Now you've got
your typical "Whitby" answer.....several possibilities.
____________________________________________
From Greg:
The good news is that there are a lot of
opinions on the best and easiest ways to replace the bearing. The
bad news is that there are many variations between our boats.

DO NOT DEPEND SOLELY on what someone else says is the "complete"
answer or solution. If you want to follow someone else's advise (and
this path usually really helps a great deal) take it only as a strong
recommendation. We have documented many differences between boats
that have been sequential in manufacture. In addition, there is no
telling what may have been installed / changed / modified / altered
in 20 years! Don't order a part only to find it isn't the one you
need.

Another gotcha is to be sure to identify the type of boat referenced
in the advice. We have emails from owners of Canadian Whitby 42s:
both bow sprit and not; from Canadian W42s with owner installed bow
sprits; Florida built W42s with same bow sprit(?) differences; Brewer
12.8s and 44s. Makes for a somewhat confusing situation as there are
many similarities and when the part arrives, disappointment that it
isn't the right one!

_____________________________________________
From Chris Grimes:
FYI
The name cutlass is derived from the ability of such bearings to pass abrasive materials such as sand and marine organisms across its surface and into the flushing grooves. These abrasive particles do not embed into the bearing surface and cause little cutting and wearing of the shaft.

______________________________________________
From Philip:
Our cutlass bearing is held in with two setscrews accessed through small holes in the fiberglass of the keel, just forward of the aft end of the bearing - one on each side

______________________________________________
From David:
Just a late follow up. Ours didn't have any set screws. It does now.
Also, the tube is machined and complex , different diameter on the inner end than on the outer end.

______________________________________________
From Bob Slais :
We replaced the cutlass bearing on hull #42 two years ago. The process is fairly simple: First, remove the set screws that hold the bearing. Remove the propeller. You may need a good gear puller to snap the propeller off the shaft taper. Be carefull not to booger the end of the threads of the shaft. Loosten the grub screws on the flange at the transmission and turn the rudder all the way one way. You may now slide the shaft out of the boat. You may also have to loosten up on the packing for the stuffing box. Once the shaft has been removed you may now press the bearing out of it's housing. We made a tool using a pice of 3/8 threaded rod, some nuts, some pipe, and a bunch of washers. The idea is to select a washer that will have the outside diameter just a little bit smaller than the bore of the bearing housing. This goes on the inside and presses on the bearing. Now select a length of pipe that is just a little larger than the outside diameter of the bearing and place it on the outside of the boat behind the bearing. Now put a couple of large washers behind the pipe, nuts on both sides of the mess, and tighten. The inside nut will push on the inside washer and in turn push on the bearing. The pipe will put pressure on the outside of the bearing housing and the bearing should slide out nicely. You can use this "tool" for instalation too, just reverse the process. Coat the outside of the bearing with a thin film of engine assembly lubricant to make it slide in easier.

I hope I helped a little. Post another note if you have any trouble and I'll help if I can.

From Greg temple:
I replaced the cutlass bearing in our Whitby 42 (#313) a couple of years
ago. The indicator that it needs replacement is that there is considerable
play when moving the prop shaft side to side and up to down.

While My Destiny has no set screws, they are commonly used to retain the
bearing. I did a bit of grinding to ascertain that there were none. I
would not be surprised to find them, however.

Removal of the bearing can range from fairly straight-forward to being a
real bear! The general approach is to pull the prop and shaft, then remove
any set screws. Remove the bearing....Usually involves carefully cutting
through the rubber bearing and then using a sawzall or hacksaw blade to cut
through the metal housing. When the lengthwise cut is made, the metal
housing can be curled (bent) inward to remove the bearing.

Do not cut thru the bearing "housing". Keep in mind the bearing is/was a
press fit into the housing and therefore will be difficult to remove.
Patience and more patience is the rule. Freeze the replacement bearing
prior to tapping it back into the housing.


Excertps compiled by:
Greg Temple
My Destiny W42, #313
October 1, 2009
Last edit: 10 years 10 months ago by Greg Temple.

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10 years 3 weeks ago #489 by John Cece
Replied by John Cece on topic Re:cutlass bearing
David Lorente, a member who lives in Barcelona, Spain, is seeking some advice for removing the cutlass bearing..... he and his mechanic are unable to locate the set screws that hold the bearing in place.

While I think I know where they are (one on each side), I don't recall just how far they are from the aft end of the bearing. Will someone ? whose boat is out of the water.... please take a few minutes, and locate the set screws (precisely!!) by measuring from the aft end of the cutlass bearing...... and/or provide any other information that may make it easier to locate them.

When the data is obtained, please post it here (for archival purposes), and e-mail the data to David Lorente : david.lorente@gmail.com

thanks,

john cece
coordinator

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10 years 3 weeks ago #490 by Douglas Stephenson
Replied by Douglas Stephenson on topic Re:cutlass bearing
Hi, Doug checking in. I find no fault in anything contributed thus far showing the difference for the 15 years of production at both the Canadian and US facilities. The only thing I would add is I have always used a bearing puller commonly available through Carquest and I would expect NAPA dealers. If you use the saw method, be careful as Greg points out as the outer housing of the assembly is your stern tube that passes through the hull and on the front end is where your stuffing box is located. If you injure the back end of the tube, life will be miserable!!! Good luck, Douglas

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8 years 5 months ago #1158 by Brett Thompson
Replied by Brett Thompson on topic Re:cutlass bearing
Hi. HELP!!!! Could use a little help. Im trying to leave for the bahamas and well my cutlass bearing is backing out. I came to this thread to find what kind I need. However the 5x2 bearing listed in this thread has an inner dimmension of 1.25 " The shaft on my whitby hull #97 1977, is 1.50 inches. I have a ford lehman hooked to a velvet drive. Does anybody have any idea if these are the correct dimmensions? It seems the 5x2 on listed here is too small. Also does anyone know what size bolts I will need to remount the shaft to the transmission? The old ones are rusty and need replacement. Before I haul the boat Any help is appreciated thanks. Stranded in Marathon.

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8 years 5 months ago - 8 years 5 months ago #1160 by Gerry O'Donoghue
Replied by Gerry O'Donoghue on topic Re:cutlass bearing
Hi Podjo

First question, how do you know that the cutless bearing is backing out. Those things seldom move of their own volition, unless they are totally worn away. Does your shaft vibrate and can you jiggle it around in the water. If so I see a hauling in your future. Remember you have at least one grub screw in the side of the stern tube holding the cutless bearing in place.

Check out Gaia's blog for some good photos;

gaiahorizons.blogspot.com/2011/12/standi...-cape-canaveral.html

Ref the replacement bearing. Before you haul go to your local Marine store and if they have none in stock get hold of the "Lewis" Catalog and ask about delivery times. Only when you have pulled the old one can you be sure of getting a correct replacement. Bolts should not be an issue, I prefer mild steel to SS.

A big time killer is removing the shaft coupling from the shaft, this can be a PITA.

This is a good video which sums it up;



Have fun.

Gerry
Last edit: 8 years 5 months ago by Gerry O'Donoghue.

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4 years 3 months ago #2323 by Robert Snelling
Replied by Robert Snelling on topic cutlass bearing
Well, it's time to replace the cutlass bearing, and wouldn't you know?....there's only a hole for one set screw on the port side. Fingers crossed there isn't a hidden one on the starboard side! Has anyone come across this situation?

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4 years 3 months ago #2324 by Gerry O'Donoghue
Replied by Gerry O'Donoghue on topic cutlass bearing
There should be set screws on both sides. I would grind away some more fiberglass on the stbd side, in the area where the set screw should be. You may have to grind all the ways down to the stern tube. You may find one, you may not. At the very least there should be a threaded hole in the stern tube to take a set screw. You should put one after you install the new cutlass bearing. The area is easily repaired with West System. Get a tube of WEST SYSTEM
Six10, Thickened Epoxy Adhesive, if you can bear the price.

Gerry
The following user(s) said Thank You: Robert Snelling

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4 years 3 months ago #2325 by Robert Snelling
Replied by Robert Snelling on topic cutlass bearing
Ugh! The thought of grinding away at that point sends my guts into the proverbial pit! Thanks!

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4 years 3 months ago #2326 by Duncan Woodhead
Replied by Duncan Woodhead on topic cutlass bearing
WE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.Used a hacksaw blade to cut the cutlass bearing into sections then pealed it out once the first section came out the rest where easy
Good Luck
The following user(s) said Thank You: Robert Snelling

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4 years 3 months ago #2327 by Robert Snelling
Replied by Robert Snelling on topic cutlass bearing
Did you also have just the one set screw, or did you have to grind away to find the second?

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4 years 3 months ago #2328 by Frank Fitzpatrick
Replied by Frank Fitzpatrick on topic cutlass bearing
Just a quick note - if your setup is the same as ours (#195), there are set screws in each side, roughly opposite each other. Beware - in ours, there are TWO setscrews in each hole - one holding the bearing and another behind it in the same hole acting as a lock screw. So check for a second set screw in each hole before you start hauling on the bearing.
Hope this helps.
Have fun -
Frank
Just Desserts #195
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3 years 9 months ago - 3 years 9 months ago #2418 by Robert Snelling
Replied by Robert Snelling on topic cutlass bearing
Never got to this project this year; try again this winter
Last edit: 3 years 9 months ago by Robert Snelling.

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3 years 5 months ago #2504 by Bo Cordle
Replied by Bo Cordle on topic cutlass bearing
Just to throw another data point into this old thread, I'm currently having my cutlass bearing replaced in Puerto Rico and on Selah, our 1984 Brewer 42, Hull #243, the size is actually 1 1/4" x 1 1/2" x 5". Johnson calls it the BIND bearing. I do have both starboard and port set screws, clearly visible in what appears to be a bronze collar aft of all fiberglass on the stern tube.

Hope that helps someone down the line...


Bo
S/V Selah (#243)
SailingBA.com

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